IMARNIN
(Yup’ik Raincoat) Made by Martina John of Toksook Bay, Nelson Island. Collected in 2005, ASM 2005-14-1.
Summer-processed bearded seal intestine. Overall thread-sewn construction with stab-stitched seams reinforced by beach grass on interior. Patterned cotton fabric trims at sleeve openings. Nylon cordage drawstring hood.
Top right: Shaman Hands and gut parka “Russian Idol.” Some sources say this is the village of Nushagak. Postcard dates between 1908-1924. Richard Alan Wood collection. Bottom right: Ella Pavil Uliggaq of Kwigillingok, fishing with a net for tomcod, circa 1930s. Martin Family Collection, Anchorage Museum, B2007.5.6.B10.
Common Yup’ik Materials
- Often made of bearded seal intestine, rarely walrus or beluga whale.
- Summer-processed, translucent intestine.
- Almost always has beach grass as seam reinforcement.
- May have colorful yarn in some seams instead of grass.
- Underarms may be of a more durable material, such as walrus intestine or fish skin.
- Occasionally red yarns or dyed dog fur tassels in the front seams.
- May have cotton fabric trims.
Regional Commonalities
Yup’ik, Cup’ig (Nunivak Island) and Cup’ik (Chevak and Hooper Bay) gut parkas of Western Alaska are very similar. Little has been written about variation in these parkas between communities or families. Grass reinforcement in the seams is the most ubiquitous feature, but an Alutiiq/ Sugpiaq parka recently made by skin sewers in Cordova, led by June Pardue, also included grass in the seams.
Typical Yup’ik Construction
- Intestinal strips are oriented horizontally, sewn in a spiral around the torso. (No side seams).
- Sewn with a stab stitch around reinforcements of beach grass on each side of the seam.
- Most seams are on the interior, but some sleeve seams may be on the exterior.
- Hood is not gathered but has a straight seam with drawstring.
- Distinctive single strip of intestine extends from one wrist over the top of the hood, down to opposite wrist.
- Small triangles in the collarbone area help transition neck/arm/torso intersection.
- Sleeve openings may be simple with grass-reinforced edge or fabric trim.
- Bottom hem is usually unfinished.