parka on the left, photos of people wearing parkas on the right

SUGHU

(St. Lawrence Island Yupik Ceremonial Gut Parka) Collected 1910-1919 by Dr. Daniel S. Neuman. ASM II-F-274.

Winter-processed bearded seal intestine. Overall thread-sewn construction with running stitch on interior. Adorned with dyed and undyed unborn seal fur, red leather, and red fabric. Cotton drawstring at hood. Gut parkas from St. Lawrence Island with vertical strips adorned with fur tassels are usually worn by women.

Top right: Shaman Hands and gut parka “Russian Idol.” Some sources say this is the village of Nushagak. Postcard dates between 1908-1924. Richard Alan Wood collection. Bottom right: Illustration of gut parkas by Florence Napaaq Malewotkuk, 1927–28. UA2004-048-001.

Common St. Lawrence Island Yupik Materials

  • Usually made of bearded seal or walrus intestine.
  • Winter-processed opaque white gut is common on St. Lawrence Island parkas, but summer-processed, translucent intestine was also used for raincoats. Sometimes both kinds are seen on same garment.
  • Rictal plates (orange beak parts shed from seabirds such as the Crested Auklet)
  • Feathers from seabirds, such as the forehead crest or the neck feathers.
  • Red leather, gut, or cloth embellishments.
  • White fuzzy unborn seal fur or white polar bear fur trims.
  • Tassels of fur, sometimes dyed red, on women’s garments.

Regional Commonalities

Winter-processed gut parkas are also made on the other side of the Bering Strait on the Chukchi Peninsula. Many St. Lawrence Island people have relatives in that region.

Typical St. Lawrence Island Yupik Construction

  • Intestinal strips of women’s parkas are often oriented vertically.
  • Stitches with a running stitch, often in thick black cotton thread.
  • Seams of many women’s parkas are on the interior.
  • Hood fits as close, gathered oval around the face.
  • Hood may be adorned with bird feathers or beakparts, maybe red strips of leather or gut
  • Sleeves may be very wide, might seem short.
  • Sleeves are constructed separately and attached at right angles to the torso.
  • Narrow triangles or strips of red cloth or leather may be part of the garment pattern.
  • Sleeve openings have narrow strip of leather or fur trim.
  • Bottom hem is usually finished with fur trim.