parka on the left, photos of people wearing parkas on the right

KANAGLLUK

(Alutiiq/Sugpiaq Gut Raincoat) Collected in 1935. From Karluk, Kodiak Island. Gift of Mrs. Marjorie Major. ASM II-A-2489.

Summer-processed bear intestine. Overall sinew-sewn construction with double-couched stitch on interior. Adorned with glass beads and colorful tufts of yarn. Sinew wrist ties at sleeve openings. Braided sinew drawstring at hood.

Top right: Detail of crosshatching pattern sometimes seen on bear intestine. Bottom right: June Pardue at Native Village of Eyak teaches Sugpiaq bear gut sewing. Image courtesy of June Pardue.

Common Alutiiq/Sugpiaq Materials

  • Often made of bear, but possibly also sea lion or whale.
  • Summer-processed, translucent intestine.
  • Bright tufts of yarn or sinew in the seams, sometimes in patterns.
  • May have glass beads as adornments, perhaps on ends of drawstring or wrist ties.
  • Older garments may have elaborate trims embroidered with thread or caribou hair on narrow dyed esophagus strips.

Regional Commonalities

Both forced and voluntary migration of people through the North Pacific region of southern Alaska may have contributed to the many similarities among Unangax̂, Alutiiq/Sugpiaq, and Athabascan gut parkas. Few bears are found west of Umnak Island along the Aleutian chain, suggesting species identification of bear may point to Alutiiq/Sugpiaq attribution.

Typical Alutiiq/Sugpiaq Construction

  • Strips oriented horizontally with side seams.
  • Usually sewn with sinew, using fine stab stitch that couches loops of another thread running over the edge of the seam (double-couched stitch).
  • Hood fits as close, gathered oval shape around the face.
  • Edge of hood may turn a corner in an L-shape at the cheeks.
  • Center back of hood may be a single strip with extra volume near the top.
  • May be hoodless.
  • Sleeve openings have long braids or twists of sinew to tie around the wrist.
  • Bottom hem may be finished with strips of painted esophagus.