Libraries, Archives, Museums: Mountaineering in Alaska primary sources: Home

Mountaineering in Alaska

This guide contains collections of primary source material relating to mountaineering in Alaska, held by archives, libraries, and museums across the state. This guide is not comprehensive and may not include every collection containing primary source material relating to mountaineering in Alaska.

Click on the linked collection names for more detailed collection descriptions. Not every collection has a detailed description online, and it may be necessary to contact the institution that owns a collection for more information.

Selected items related to mountaineering in Alaska from many of the institutions represented in this guide have been digitized and added to Alaska's Digital Archives. You can use the search box at the top right of the homepage to search for these materials.

If you represent an institution that holds primary source materials related to mountaineering in Alaska and would like to see them included in this guide, please contact the UAA/APU Consortium Library Archives and Special Collections.

Alaska State Library Historical Collections

Grant H. Pearson manuscript, 1902-1957.
MS 4-37-6. The Grant H. Pearson manuscript, titled They're All Gone Now, is a history of the first sourdoughs in the Kantishna, Alaska Mining District. There are biographies and detailed stories about some of the people who lived and worked in the Kantishna mining district. There is also a history of the first people to climb Mt. McKinley starting with the James Wickersham group in 1903 and the Lloyd group in 1910.

Anchorage Museum at Rasmuson Center

Dora Keen Collection; 1880-1958 (bulk 1911-1932).
B2015.008. Photographs, clippings, and ephemera related to Dora Keen’s mountaineering expeditions in Alaska.
George S. Lewis collection, circa 1911-1912.
B2005.037. The collection consists of the photograph album of George S. Lewis and 16 loose photographs, including images of a Mt. McKinley (Denali) climbing expedition.

Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Mountaineering Club of Alaska scrapbooks.
The club’s scrapbooks are accessible to the public and housed at Hoarding Marmot, located at 1231 W. Northern Lights Blvd., in Anchorage.

UAA/APU Consortium Library Archives and Special Collections

Russ Dow papers, 1917-1932.
HMC-0396. Russ came to Alaska in the mid-1930s on some of Bradford Washburn's glacial and mountain climbing expeditions. A life long skier, Russ trained soldiers at Ft. Richardson during World War II and was involved in the Anchorage Ski Club.
Grace and John Vincent Hoeman papers, 1952-1979.
HMC-0887. Alaskan residents, worldwide mountaineers, both were involved in the Mountaineering Club of Alaska.
Harry and Norma Hoyt family papers; 1908-1989.
HMC-0988. The collection includes photographs from an expedition near Mt. McKinley (Denali) in the 1930s.
William J. Mills, Jr. papers, circa 1941-2005.
HMC-1214. Papers of doctor who did research into cold injuries and physiological effects of low temperatures, including studies of mountain climbers.
Mountaineering Club of Alaska records, 1960-1981.
HMC-0690. Some records related to a mountaineering advocacy group.
Vern Tejas papers, 1971-2003.
HMC-0657. Papers and photographs of an Alaskan mountain climber.

University of Alaska Fairbanks Alaska and Polar Regions Collections and Archives Alaska Film Archives

[1930 Mt. Fairweather climb]. 1930.
Recorded during the 1930 climb of Mt. Fairweather with Bradford Washburn.
[1932 Mt. Crillon climb]. 1932
AAF-9321-AAF-9328. Filmed by Bradford Washburn during the 1932 climb of Mt. Crillon in Alaska. Climbing activity includes climbers sorting gear, unpacking food bags, setting up tent camps, demonstrating equipment and clothing, hiking on land and glaciers, skiing, caching supplies, and various climbing activities.
[1933 and 1934 Mt. Crillon climbs]. [between 1933 and 1934]
AAF-9329 -AAF-9340.Filmed by Bradford Washburn during the climbs of Mt Crillon during 1933 and 1934. Camp and climbing activity includes climbers sorting gear, unpacking food bags, setting up tent camps, surveying, demonstrating equipment and clothing, hiking on land and glaciers, skiing, pulling sleds, checking geology, setting up electronic and radio gear, supplies,pulling canoe overland, and various climbing activities.
[1937 Mt. Lucania climb]. 1937.
AAF-9356-AAF-9359. Recorded during 1937 climb of Mt Lucania with Bradford Washburn.
[1938 Mt. Marcus Baker climb]. 1938.
AAF-9365 -- AAF-9370Filmed during 1938 climb of Mt. Marcus Baker with Bradford Washburn.
[1940 Mt. Bertha climb].1940.
AAF-9372-AAF-9378. Filmed in 1940 during the first ever ascent of Mt. Bertha by Bradford Washburn, et al. Other climbers included Barbara Washburn, Lowell Thomas Jr., Tom Winship, Mal Miller, and Miche Feuersinger.
[1941 Mt. Hayes climb]. 1941.
AAF-9379, 9400. Includes views of climbers ascending along a ridgeline on Mt. Hayes, walking through snow, setting up camp, digging in snow to set up tents, view of the summit from camp, collecting snow for water, ascending Mt. Hayes, clouds rolling over the peak of Mt. Hayes, celebrating on the summit, flag on the summit.
[1947 Mt. McKinley climb]. 1947.
Includes scenes of climbing filmed during the 1947 Mt. McKinley (Denali) climb by Bradford Washburn and others. Other climbers included Barbara Washburn (first recorded ascent by a woman).
[1951 Mt. McKinley climb]. 1951.
AAF-9390-AAF-9393. Climbing activity includes various views of McKinley, Super Cub operating on mountain, climbers hauling gear and climbing, snow block shelter construction, climbers on summit, climbers preparing gear at staging area, checking radio, air drops on mountain, and camp life.
1964 Mount McKinley expedition. 1964
AAF-2939. Film combines narration by expedition members Peter Haase, Carol Howisey, and Jim Prichard, combined with motion pictures and slides to detail the successful climb of Mount McKinley. Members of the party reaching the summit on July 9, 1964.
Alaska review 8. 1977.
AAF-4953. Second segment contains a report on Denali mountain climbers and proposed regulations changes. Interviewees include: Jim Hale, mountain guide; Ray Genet, mountain guide; Bob Gerhard, mountaineering ranger for Mt. McKinley National Park; Barbara Washburn, explorer and the first woman to summit Denali; Bradford Washburn, explorer; Mike Fisher, pilot for Talkeetna Air Service; Nick Hartzell, park ranger; Frances Randall, mountain climber and full time summer resident of glacier landing strip on Denali; Glenn Fortner, leader of climbing expedition; and Dan Kuehn, Mt. McKinley National Park superintendent. Images include aerial views of Denali and surrounding glaciers.
Alaska review 53. 1983.
AAF-4998. Alaska Review reports on the climbing of Mt. McKinley, and regulations changes within Denali National Park and Preserve.
[Army expedition on McKinley].1942.
AAF-9380. Finished lecture film presented by Bradford Washburn that was filmed during equipment testing on Mount McKinley during World War II.
[Army expedition on McKinley]. 1942.
AAF-9382. Footage used to make Bradford Washburn's lecture film (AAF-9380) about equipment testing conducted on Mt. McKinley during 1942. Images include climbing on Mt. McKinley and climbers reaching summit, equipment is demonstrated, tent camp and life in camp, and Brad Washburn and Bates (?) hiking out to road carrying backpacks.
[Andrew Taylor film of recovery on Denali's Muldrow Glacier, and Mt. Fairweather climb]. 1932.
AAF-13930. Film contains scenes of a party of mountain climbers - including Merle LaVoy, Grant Pearson and Andy Taylor - recovering the body of Theodore Koven in 1932. Koven had perished earlier that same year during a scientific expedition to study cosmic rays at Muldrow Glacier, located on Denali, known then as Mt. McKinley.
Bold journey: conquest of Mt. McKinley. 1954.
AAF-2498. Fred Beckey narrates his account of the first ascent of Mt. McKinley from the north side which took place during 1954.
The Land, the man and the mountain: Don Sheldon, Alaskan bush pilot. [2000], c1975.
AAF-7328. Biography of Don Sheldon, emphasizing his years running an air taxi service out of Talkeetna and his knowledge and competency in flying mountaineering parties onto Mt. McKinley.
Lindley-Liek Expedition Mt. McKinley 1932 with Pearson narration. 1932.
Program combines the best surviving portions of three 16mm silent film prints with a narration by Park Superintendent Grant Pearson recorded while he watched the film. Mountain climber Alfred Lindley produced the original film documenting the 1932 Mount McKinley climb by the Lindley-Liek party.
Mount McKinley Adventure. 1954.
AAF-123. Account of McKinley climb by Captain William Hackett, Dr. Donald McLean, Henry Meybohm, Charles Wilson, and Fred Beckey. Images include travel to the Mountain by Super Cub, climbers hiking and on snowshoes, tent camp, blizzard, damaged airplane on glacier, supply drop by airplane, climb and ascent of the mountain, hike from mountain, stream crossing, and climbers reaching support vehicles on road.
[Mount McKinley climb]. 1975.
AAF-155. Images include men assembling supplies, bus in park at Wonder Lake, climbers wading across river, climbing using snowshoes, making campsite, crossing snow bridge, assembling tent, climbing with various equipment through a variety of mountainous terrains, burning garbage, preparing food and climbers shaking hands at the summit.
[Mt. McKinley climb]. 1975.
AAF-254--AAF-255. Includes images of climbers preparing for a Mt. McKinley (Denali) climbing expedition.
[McKinley Expedition clips].1994.
AAF-8951. Contains images of mountains and glaciers, airplane landing on glacier, three airplanes on the ground, campsite, people talking and taking pictures, Ini Dukette (spelling unverified) interview, sound bites from different people at campsite, Mari (last name unknown) interview, people explaining itinerary for McKinley trip, Northern Studies group holding sign, airplane taking off, McKinley trip participants, and person trying to use cellular phone. [
Out of this world AJJEX American Japanese joint expedition. 1967.
AAF-534--AAF-535. Narrated film of the April through May 1967 climbing expedition conducted during the 10th anniversary of Seattle and Kobi Japan becoming Sister Cities. Expedition members climbed the highest previously unclimbed mountains in North America which were in the Wrangell mountains. Images include climbers meeting in Seattle, ski practice, SeaTac airport, flight to Alaska, bus trip from Anchorage through Tok to Northway, travel by Cessna 185 skiplane to Chisana and then to base camp on Russell Glacier, camping activity on the glacier, and climbing activities in conquering several peaks.
[Survey on southeast side of McKinley]. 1955.
AAF-9396. Includes images of climbers, cold weather clothing, supplies, and camp life.

University of Alaska Fairbanks Alaska and Polar Regions Collections and Archives Historical Manuscript Collections

For more detailed collection descriptions, please visit StarArchives, the catalog for archival collections at the University of Alaska Fairbanks, and search for the collections using the search box on the main page.

Alaska Alpine Club Records. 1951-1990.
USUAF368. Records of the Alaska Alpine Club include correspondence between climbers, administrative records, plans for huts constructed by the club, copies of the club's newsletters "Descent" and "Alaskan Mountain Newsletter," photographs, and a history of climbs on Mount McKinley.
American Japanese Joint Expedition (AJJEX), 1967, Records. 1967.
USUAFV6-162. The collection consists of written and photographic documentation of the American Japanese Joint Expedition (AJJEX), undertaken in 1967. The expedition's objective was the ascent of the highest unclimbed and unnamed peak in North America, with the highest peak of the Twaharpies as the primary objective.
Crosson Family Papers. 1920-1980.
USUAFV.5-19. Contains material related to the Cosmic Ray Expedition, which changed the nature of mountain climbing when they hired Alaskan Airways to fly them as close to the Mt. McKinley (Denali) as practical.
Day, Doris E. Collection. 1898-1935.
USUAFV6-296. The collection includes a group of photos taken during the Taylor-Peterson ascent of Mount McKinley (Denali) in March 1911.
Farquhar, Francis P. Papers. 1896-1960.
USUAF400. The Francis P. Farquhar Papers consist primarily of Farquhar's collection of research material concerning the ascents and attempted ascents of Mount McKinley from 1896 to 1947, but also contain information on expeditions to Mount Saint Elias, Mount Wrangell, and Mount Blackburn for a similar time period.
Hackett, Major William D Collection. 1939-1959.
V.5-31. Includes material relating to military testing of cold weather climbing gear.
La Voy, Merl Photograph Collection. 1910s (Bates, Robert H., Photograph Collection).
UAUAFV6-145. The Merl La Voy Photograph Collection consists of 40 photographs of Alaskan scenes, at least 19 of them taken by La Voy. The images, most of which lack identifying captions, depict Sitka and other towns in Southeast Alaska; mining camps; camping; mountaineering; glaciers; and scenic views. The collection also includes a portrait of Leonhard Seppala.
Lange, G. Robert Papers. 1947-1949.
USUAFV6-936. The G. Robert Lange Papers contain slides, photographs, news clippings, and ephemera related to Lange's 1947 Mount McKinley ascent with Bradford Washburn. There are also slides and photographs of Lange's participation in the Juneau Icefield research project, 1949.
Livingston, Paul Vane Papers. 1951-1969.
USUAFV4-30. Livingston was a mountaineer and many of the photographs and some of the correspondence in the collection reflect this interest.
McCracken, Harold Collection. 1909.
USUAFV214. The scrapbooks of newspaper clippings cover the controversy surrounding Dr. Frederick Cook's claims to be the first man to the North Pole and the first to ascend Mount McKinley.
Moore, Terris and Katrina Hincks Moore Papers. 1908-1995.
USUAF225. Terris Moore's mountaineering and flying files consists of log books, diaries, correspondence, newsclippings, and presentations documenting his mountaineering career, including his famed summit of Minya Konka in 1932.
Mount McKinley Expedition, 1964. 1964.
USUAFV5-174. This collection of materials relating to the Mount McKinley Expedition, 1964, consists of articles, diaries and publications describing the expedition through the individual viewpoints of seven climbing members and three non-climbing members. The collection also includes 523 color slides.
Read, Norman H. Mount Logan Papers. circa 1925-1950.
USUAFV3-83. The Norman H. Read Mount Logan Papers consist of Read's accounts of his ascents of Mount Logan in 1925 and 1950, as well as expedition plans, news clippings, publications, and more than one thousand photographs, most of them taken during the expeditions.
Reeve, Robert Photograph Collection. circa 1944.
USUAFV6-355. Most of the collection consists of photographs of persons, mountains, equipment, and aircraft used in the expedition to recover bodies from the C-A1 of the ATC which crashed in the Mount McKinley region, circa 1944.
Sheldon, Charles Papers. 1893-1942.
USUAF287. This collection contains Charles Sheldon's correspondence, diaries of exploration and hunting trips in Alaska, manuscripts, and miscellaneous other papers.
Stenmark, Richard J., Denali Climb (1961) Photographs. 1961.
USUAFV6-878. The Richard J. Stenmark Denali Climb (1961) Photographs contain images of a 1961 ascent of Denali/Mt. McKinley. Stenmark served as photographer for most of the images. Images of Stenmark were taken by Dolf Reist. The collection also includes a detailed list of the images and commentary accompanying the slides, written by Stenmark.
Stuck, Hudson Papers. 1902-1920 (Rev. Hudson Stuck Collection).
USUAFV6-20. The Hudson Stuck Papers contain manuscripts for three of Stuck's books; a small amount of correspondence concerning their publication; and copies of Stuck's diary for 1912-1913 titled "Journal of Archdeacon Hudson Stuck Recording Ascent of Mt. Denali (Mt. McKinley), June 1913."
Thayer Expedition on Mt. McKinley. 1954.
USUAFV6-329. This collection of materials from the Thayer Expedition on Mt. McKinley, 1954, consists of letters concerning the expeditions preparations for its climb and reactions to the rescue of one of its members, a field diary, photos taken during the expedition and in its aftermath, and aerial photos used during the climb.
Washburn, Bradford and Barbara Papers. 1920- (Bradford Washburn Collection).
USUAFV5-95. The Bradford and Barbara Washburn Papers consist of diaries, maps, slides, and photographs documenting the Washburns' many mountaineering and mapping expeditions.
Waterman, John Papers. 1966-1981.
USUAFV6-297. The John Waterman Papers consist of photocopies of Waterman's journals of his five-month solo ascent of Alaska's Mount Hunter in 1978 and a cassette tape of Joan Koponen's interview with Waterman (February 1980) concerning his plans for a solo ascent of Mount McKinley, as well as articles and other miscellaneous papers relating to John Waterman and mountain climbing.

University of Alaska Fairbanks Alaska and Polar Regions Collections and Archives Oral History Program

Denali Mountaineering
The Denali Mountaineering Jukebox is an interactive computer program featuring audio and video clips, photographs, maps, and texts of the people that have made history in the mountains encompassed by Denali National Park and Preserve. The "Jukebox" offers a broad spectrum of mountaineering experiences, from climbers to bush pilots, from park rangers to concessionaires.

Credits

This guide is supported in whole or in part by the Institute of Museum and Library Services through the Library Services and Technology Act, administered by the Alaska State Library.